Wine and dine a growing trend
The grape outpaces mixed drinks
BUT WHAT ABOUT SOUTH AFRICA's SUPERB WINES
By Leon Stafford
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Published on: 06/09/07
Atlanta restaurateurs say the increasing popularity of wine —- from tasting clubs to more diverse stocks at grocery stores to bars specializing in different vintages —- is beefing up dinner checks and breathing new life into the restaurant industry.
Over the past five years, diners have more than doubled their consumption of vino, helping the beverage outpace traditional favorites like mixed drinks and beer at some establishments, operators of several of Atlanta's most popular eateries say.
"Wine makes up 65 percent of our beverage sales," said Todd Rushing, one of the founders of Concentrics Restaurants, the Atlanta-based operator of dining establishments like One Midtown Kitchen, Trois and Piebar. "Prior to the mid-'90s, wine sales were always second to spirits. It's unbelievable how wines sales have grown."
And the expectation is that the numbers will continue to rise. Because of the interest in wine —- locally and nationally —- the industry is dedicating more land to vineyards, and more countries such as Australia, Argentina and Portugal are exporting bottles to the United States.
Gone are the days when a few regions such as Napa Valley, Calif., or countries such as France ruled most of the output, restaurateurs said. The entrance of other lesser-known competitors is giving consumers more choice in flavor and price.
"More and more affordable wines are available," said Jeff Pendleton, director of operations and a vice president for the Grape, the Atlanta-based retail and wine bar chain. "Your neighborhood store has also upped the quality of the wine they carry."
The uptick in consumption comes as restaurants are struggling with increased competition and flat margins because of a failure to distinguish themselves from one another, said Mark Newton, program director of the hotel, restaurant, tourism management program at Gwinnett Tech. The more steakhouses that open, for instance, the harder it is for them to make money if they haven't given the public a reason to choose one over the other, he said.
"Wines are a great way to differentiate yourself," he said, adding that has been especially effective among higher-end restaurants. "Those that have figured that out are doing well."
Another reason for the rising interest in wine is its health benefits, Newton said. Medical reports touting the healthy effects of red wine on the heart have encouraged some to switch from mixed drinks to wine, especially among baby boomers.
"The baby boom generation are the ones who have really started this trend," he said.
Wine's surge is an about-face from years past. In the 1980s, consumers' knowledge of wine was largely relegated to picking a red or white with dinner, said Willy Cellucci, general manager of the Palm Restaurant in Buckhead.
Now, with wine promoted on the Food Network, more variety at discount stores like Costco and Sam's Club, and programs that introduce new flavors to consumers, diners demand a more substantial wine list, he said. "At first, they started with reds and whites," said Cellucci, who has increased the restaurant's wine inventory by about 25 percent to meet consumer needs. "Then they began talking about cabernets and chardonnays. Now the guest is sophisticated. Not only do they know the wines, they know the taste profile, they know the region and they know how much it should cost."
That knowledge of a wine's value has caused restaurant operators to rethink pricing, the Atlanta operators said. Once an easy way to pad the final bill, wine costs have come down. Instead of buying a $200 bottle of a French Bordeaux to impress the boss, diners look for an obscure Italian wine for $45 to show their knowledge and start conversations.
"You can't get away with gouging," Cellucci said. "What you lose in higher prices you make up in sales volume."
Rushing said wine also makes food come to life. While what goes best with what is subjective, wine's variety, from a dry chardonnay to a sweet riesling can add variety to dinner.
"Wine pairs better with food," he said. "With spirits, it's very one-dimensional. You don't get that wonderful experience."
Shaun Doty, who operates Shaun's in Inman Park, said wine also has become fashionable among young diners, ensuring that it will have a long reign.
"It's a sophisticate hobby for many," he said. "Young people are more enthusiastic than ever about drinking wine."
But even though diners are more knowledgeable, they still like to be surprised by a wine. Doty spends a lot of time researching wines and finding interesting sources. That not only gets guests to expand their knowledge, but it also drives traffic because the wines are not found on store shelves.
"We spend a lot of time sourcing wine, making sure they are unique," he said.
WORLD OF WINE
Driving the increase in wine consumption at Atlanta restaurants is the variety of imports from countries that years ago were not major players in the United States. According to the restaurateurs, the most popular new imports:
Argentina
Portugal
Spain
Australia
Italy
Chile
Recent Comments